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Durrës (pronounced: Dooh-ras) is one of Albania's oldest cities, the country's main sea port and its second largest industrial centre. It has the second largest population size (167,000) in the country, after Tirana. The city lies (41.19N, 19.27E) on a small peninsula on the coast of the Adriatic Sea, and was established in the year 627 BC by Corinthian and Corcyra (modern Corfu) colonists, in the area of an ancient settlement of the Illyrian tribe Taulant. It has gone by the names of Epidamnos, Dyrrah and Dyrrachium, from which its present name is derived. Having established good trading relationships with other places, the city and its largely Illyrian population prospered.
Ever since the 5th century BC, Durrës has produced metals, ceramics, fabrics and leather, and has had shipyards for building and repairing ships. In its early days, Durrës was a city-state with slaves and a slave-owning class. Old coins found in the area of Durrës are proof of the economical development of that period and it was the city that put the Illyrian Drachma into circulation. Arts and architecture prospered: the Bukuroshja e Durrësit (Beautiful Girl of Durrës) mosaic is one of the most famous artefacts that have been found. In the year 229 BC, Durrës fell under the rule of Rome, but retained semi-autonomy until it became a full Roman colony during the rule of Augustus, around the year 20 BC. During that period the local Illyrian population gained political power and rose to senior administrative positions, as is indicated by the many Illyrian names found on headstones and other inscriptions.
Durrës developed during the period between the 1st and 3rd centuries AD, becoming a major trading centre and port on the eastern coast of the Adriatic. Craftsmanship developed and roads, libraries, aqueducts and odeons were built, including the Amphitheatre. At the end of the 3rd century, Durrës became the centre of the province of New Epirus and in the 4th century, despite the crisis affecting the rest of the Roman Empire, it remained a developed trading centre. During the 5th and 6th centuries, it was an important city in the western part of the Byzantine Empire and withstood the attacks of Ostrogoths and other barbarians. Under the rule of Anastas, who was born in the city, many new buildings sprang up, such as the hippodrome, two surrounding city walls, and the Basilica of Arapajt. Durrës was also an Episcopal centre.
Between the 10th and 14th centuries, the city was subject to a series of attacks (by the Bulgarians between 989 and 1005; by the Normans, in 1082 and 1083, who then set it ablaze in 1185; by Venice in 1205, from whom the Duchy of Durrës was created; by Charles of Anjou in 1272, who established the Kingdom of Arbëria with Durrës as its capital; and by the Serbs at the beginning of the 14th century). In the 14th century, Durrës was Albania's largest city, with around 25,000 inhabitants. In 1368, it was taken by Karl Topia and became the centre of the Principality of Arbëria. In 1392, the city, now known as Durrazzo, returned to Venetian rule. It was besieged by Mehmet II and the Ottoman army in 1466 but was not taken by them until 1501, by which time the city had been devastated by centuries of attacks. Nevertheless, it retained its importance as a natural harbour and, with its links into the hinterland and along the Via Egnatia to Thessalonica and Constantinople (Byzantium), linking East with West, it began to recover.
Durrës has been severely damaged by earthquakes, in 345 BC, 1372 AD, 1905 and 1926. During and after the 1870s, the city grew slowly, and branches of foreign shipping companies were opened here. Its citizens participated in the Albanian national liberation movement, during the years 1878–1881 and again in 1910–1912. On November 21st 1912, Ismail Qemali landed in the port and on November 26th the Albanian flag of independence was raised in the city, but which was subsequently captured by Serbs three days later. The Serbs remained until May, 1913. On March 7th 1913, Durrës became the capital of Albania. After the fall of Wilhelm Wied, the Austrian prince appointed King of Albania by the European powers, Durrës was the scene of many uprisings. In 1916 it was captured by Austro-Hungarian forces, and in 1918 by Italian forces. During the past nine centuries, Durrës has changed hands from one ruler to another 33 times.
After World War I, in December, 1918, a national congress was held in Durrës and a temporary administration of the city was appointed, but this fell in January, 1920, after the Congress of Lushnja. The citizens of Durrës participated in the fighting in Vlora and in the democratic movements of the years 1921–1924. During the rule of King Zog, Italian financing flowed through Durrës, and many factories were built, e.g. for producing flour, cigarettes and pasta. After suffering damage in the earthquake of December 1926, wider roads were built, and the city gained an appearance similar to that at present, especially near to the port. During the 1930s, Durrës marked a steady development, from 4,700 inhabitants in 1923 to 10,500 in 1938. During 1939, it was the centre of resistance to the Italian Fascist forces that had occupied the country. Many demonstrations and strikes were held in the city, and in 1942 the National Liberation Council was formed here. In August, 1943, the city was taken by the Germans, who blew up the port the following year.
After World War II, Durrës was transformed into an industrial city, and it became an important cultural and educational centre. Today, the main industries are mechanical and chemical engineering, electronics and furniture, plastic, rubber and food production and processing. Durrës produces wine, cigarettes, fish, plastic and rubber articles, and maintains high tonnage ships, train carriages, electric motors, radio and television sets, etc.
Aside from the City Library, the Cultural Centre and Aleksander Moisiu Theatre, Durrës has the Estrada Theatre and Puppet Theatre, a Philharmonic orchestra, Durrësi Ensemble and many other artistic groups. Museums that have been built here include the Archaeological Museum and History Museum, while the family house of Aleksander Moisiu has been turned into a museum. Durrës has many scientific associations and a branch of the Artists and Writers Association is active in the city.
Durrës was the scene of many demonstrations during the democratic movement of 1990–1991, since when it has expanded to the north and east, and though many new public and residential buildings have been built, monuments of the ancient city have been preserved. The main industrial zone is at the eastern entrance to the city, in the Shkozet area. Durrës has many parks and gardens, and an outdoor theatre has been built on the hills above the city. Its main recreational areas are Durrës Beach and Currilave Beach, where citizens and tourists enjoy the sea and yellow sand of the Adriatic.
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